![split rivet split rivet](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71i3AfC49FL.__AC_SY300_QL70_ML2_.jpg)
What process did they use and why can’t I use something similar that will result in an authentic outcome? While the adhesives ideas would work, I got to thinking about how the workers in the Studebaker plant were able to build a car using just split rivets….so started the challenge. You can only access the split end from the side of the rivet which requires your body to be under the dash/cowl area. The issue I have is shown in the sketch below which details the ease of access to the head of the rivet but shows the limited access of the split end.
![split rivet split rivet](https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/GfcAAOSwVFlT48BX/s-l640.jpg)
I also heard from someone who works on guitar amps (identical construction as my case), that he straightens out the legs in the back of the case, then clips them off, then applies firm & even pulling-pressure to the bracket on the front to just pull them straight out - That way, it seems there may be much less damage to the case, and I might actually be able to replace them with similar rivets rather than screws.I appreciate all the comments and ideas. I actually printed all these responses out for safe keeping, since I have many cases with these type of rivets which need work - some need total recovering, which would require removing ALL the rivets - but I'm going to wait to start on THOSE until I have a drill press & other tools reccomended here, for sure!. (DJG, I have chewed up a few drill bits too - thanks for the tip on the cutting fluid - I've seen how fluid is always used when drilling metal on those How It's Made factory videos, but they always have a gushing stream of the stuff - didn't know a few drops could actually be beneficial.) Thanks for all the awesome responses! Much appreciated. Watch out for heat buildup though, you don't want to burn/melt the case's covering material. Lastly, if you are replacing the whole handle, then maybe just grind off the heads with a dremmel like grinding stone. Those rivets appear to be hard steel and you may get through both of them without fluid, but the next time you need your bits, they will be useless. Try to use just a drop so you don't get any on the wood. I learned the hard way by having to replace set after set of drill bits.
![split rivet split rivet](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0035/2639/3974/products/k0wkwuyuzgf_580x@2x.jpg)
Once that's gone just punch the rivet out from the outside using a small punch.Īlways use cutting fluid when drilling. You don't need to drill all the way through the river just the head. The drill as before with a small bit first, and then larger until the bottom side of the head where it attaches to the shank has been cut away. Second method: Try to grind a flat spot or dimple on the head of the rivet with a small conical grinding stone like that used in dremmel tools. Use the punch to knock out (tap lightly) the rest of the rivet. Then use progressively larger bits until the split portion of the rivet has been eaten up. You don't want to slip and start drilling into wood. This should help keep you from walking out of the track made by the split portion of the rivet.
![split rivet split rivet](https://www.mgaguru.com/tales/mobile10/4324.jpg)
Use a small diameter (less than 1/2 the diameter of the rivet shank - not head) drill bit first. First, like you thought, maybe going from the back side would be the thing to try. I've removed a lot of Pop rivets before, where the head is already 'dimpled'.